Rohtang Pass – Ladakh capitolo 2

The night made our first climb in altitude a little’ muddy and if, the idiot stuck in the picture is me. From northern India we go to Ladakh through the Rohtang Pass.

"Wet-out, Starting lucky "we said, forking the Royal Enfield stuck to us Manali. We knew that the first is, that of the southern, would have been the most critical from the standpoint of meteorological. And, in fact, It rained all night and the rise to Rohtang La (The mean step in Ladako, DAKH è la la indeed “land of high passes”), the first of the major steps, ci avvisano sia una bella fanghiglia.

rohtang pass ladakh royal enfield nel fangoThe first part runs off on a smooth paved road as we have seen many in India: higher we get, more the air is cold and thin and more increases heart and breathing rate. I see on the side a vulture, placido mi osserva. Maybe it's just a hallucination and I think of those told by Ted Simon, maybe it's an omen. If it is, is also clear that did not have it with me, because the vulture soars and hovers in the lush valley, the last so green before aridity that awaits us on the other side.

The Rohtang hour 3.979 meters above sea level and off the bike when I'm out of breath even to make shooting with the camera. I have never been so high and my body is still getting used to, it will take me almost four days to acclimatize at altitude. I compare myself with other fellow travelers, all have the same symptoms and decide to start taking Diamox*, the medicine of the mountaineers. At the shortness of breath you add the drastic deterioration of the road when we begin to descend on the northern front: huge puddles and mud slow down the march and make us sweat. Remain implanted to let pass a truck.

rohtang pass ladakh royal enfield on the road

Yes, because this is the only road to reach the Ladakh from the south and is then visited by the fearsome Indian truck drivers or truck that will meet military abundant during our journey.

When we reach a tiny village and we stop for a moment of rest is a real relief. The temperature here is higher and even the smell of rain. We are immediately surrounded by a group of ragged boys of Roma. We ask for some rupee and even if you squeeze the heart does not want to feed the bad habit of almsgiving which in India is a real social problem. That, instead of loose change, offer them a part of our ration. We have some snacks to offer, but their eyes light up when they see our fruit! They are ready to fight over a pear or a banana, genuine rarity in these parts and we can not do a comparison now with our children…

Before the evening we reach Jispa, one of the few villages that are the obligatory crossroads for those who follow this path and find accommodation in a hotel full of running water even, not so hot, but abundant.

rohtang pass ladakh royal enfield on the road traffico

(*a diuretic which helps to lower blood pressure and reduce the risk of cerebral edema)

The rest of the report can be found in the November issue of Cafè Racer Italia.

photo credit: Marco Denicolò and Motoreetto.

Special thanks to Tucano Urbano.

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motoreetto in the mud of rohtang pass ladakh himalaya

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