Ladakh capitolo 5: Leh, the Khardung La and Nubra Valley

Ladakh: start from Tsomo-Riri and reach the city of Leh, cuore Ladakh. Hence we get on the carriage step highest in the world, the Khardung La and opens before us the spectacle of Nubra Valley.

From the lake to the capital ladaka Tsomo-Riri is a long journey that we undertake a full day. To cover the more than 200km employ more than 10 hours, not only to the average speed at which tiny forces us the road in some sections, but mainly because of military convoys - this is a rebuilt street almost annually by the army here that has some basis - and in work in progress frequent that force us to long stops for the detonation of mines. However, the morale of the crew is good and go up the mighty river Indos, and the heat is made bearable by the sight of this incredible valley, one of the most colorful one may admire in Ladakh. In some places, in fact, the rock takes on a purplish color that appears almost unnatural. To make it even more spectacular, Mother Nature has decided to approach it to other rocks of emerald green! It is a vision in technicolor that propels us into a fantasy film, but it's all true. More frequent stops to require our Royal Enfield, that in this trip are appreciated for reliability.

We reach Leh at dusk and after days of desert silence seems like a metropolis. It is actually a town comparable to a province of our country, but here in the middle is a real city with all the comforts and discomforts. We are immediately impressed by the traffic, messy as in the rest of India, and especially smog! It is a serious problem already for that Ladakh, under the impulse of the tourist as well as that of the army here has many bases, has grown rapidly the level of pollution.

Leh however there appears bubbly: the main streets are teeming with shops selling pashminas Kashmir, Tibetan amulets, t-shirts and sports equipment from the best brands, counterfeit. Shopkeepers invite you to come by turning the current generator that gives light to the room and press upon the visitor although always in a polite. As good Italians we can not escape us a sign that appears like a mirage: "Il Forno Pizzeria". Today Leh is also this! So we take a day off to get to know the capital and coincidentally the same day there is visiting the Dalai Lama who has a residence nearby. Let us also join the crowd of faithful that await him at the exit of a Gompa thus entering more in communion with the local population.

After a good night's sleep in one of the best hotels in the city (even comes with free internet!) we rely on the bike with one of the goals of this trip: cross the highest pass in the world, the Khardung La!

We face the 40 km and the 2.000 vertical meters that separate Leh by step with his head down and gas wide open (with RE so to speak ...). The first 20 km the road is in good condition, but then becomes dysfunctional. The powder white sand slips into our nostrils and in our eyes and the holes shook up our vertebrae. A few kilometers from the summit my RE I played a dirty trick because of the carburetor. After a makeshift repair allotment, but a few feet of the carburetor gives back. We change it on the fly, about us 5.000 meters and is short of breath just to turn a screw, but at this point I have no intention of giving up to the finish. We share and this is the right time, touch the roof of the world, a 5.603 meters of altitude! Around us the highest peaks of the land seem within reach, we see the top. From the glaciers seems arrivals cold frost perennial. We go down the other side and after about twenty kilometers from enduro, we enter into the show of Nubra Valley. We were told it would be worth it, but what we see there astounds: a real desert dotted with green oases made possible by the passage of tumultuous river Shyok. Going up the valley we find that the power of the river subsides and creates a myriad of streams that give life to a swamp. Going up the ridge you discover a Gompa newly built topped by a giant Buddha high 30 meters that can be seen from miles away. A few miles to the north, along the valley, instead meet the sand dunes, become an attraction in the area. Here we gather, as well as to admire the unusual spectacle of a desert about 3.200 meters, bivouac, stay with friends or take a ride on the backs of camels, as we were in the Sahara.

We spend the night in a fantastic tented camp and the next day we face again Khardung La back to Leh. Needless to say again the carburetor of my RE is frisky and are forced to a long stop restorative. Earn back the step is a new conquest.